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non-toxic nail polish
December 1, 2020

Non-toxic Nail Polish with Hydrating Oils

Susan Kasparov, PharmD, BA Beauty

Did you know that nail polish can contain toxic ingredients? You may wonder what to look out for when buying nail lacquers or visiting the salon. Lately, I have been using a vegan “16-free” formulation with nourishing oils and plant extracts. With so many non-toxic brands on the market, I love trying out new shades! Keep reading to find out which ingredients you should avoid and which brand I am using at the moment.

What is the “Toxic Trio”?

Nail polish can contain formaldehyde, dibutyl phthalate (DnBP), and toluene. These chemicals are known as the “Toxic Trio.” Formaldehyde prevents bacterial growth and hardens nails as a resin. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) considers it “a probable human carcinogen.” Formaldehyde can cause allergic dermatitis in up to 8-9% of patch-tested individuals. Although this reaction often develops around the nail bed, it can also appear on other parts of the body. 1 People with sensitivities should avoid contact with formaldehyde.

DnBP is a plasticizer. It is often used to improve flexibility, color, and prevent nail polish from chipping. DnBP is an endocrine disruptor and the European Union has banned its use in cosmetics.2 Toluene is used to make polymers for various consumer products such as nail polish. It is also an irritant and can cause developmental effects in children of pregnant women. Exposure to toluene can lead to nervous system disorders and heart arrhythmias. 3

Is “3-Free” nail polish actually non-toxic?

Many brands on the market are now “3-Free” due to possible adverse effects. Yet, a study published in 2019 found that 4 out of 28 popular brands of “formaldehyde-free” lacquers did contain formaldehyde. 1 Additionally, DnBP is often replaced with another plasticizer called triphenyl phosphate (TPHP). Women of child-bearing age are the most frequent users of nail polish. Yet, recent research shows that TPHP may affect thyroid function and reproductive health in women. 2 Due to this, I am more selective and prefer to do my own research. Click here to check out Byrdie’s list of 14 non-toxic nail polish brands. Many of these brands are even more than 3-free.

Londontown lakur

Londontown lakur has become my go-to brand for home use. It is free of 16 chemicals including formaldehyde, toluene, phthalates, and TPHP. Click here to check out the full blacklist. I also adore the wide variety of shades available at an affordable price. The red vintage-inspired manicure below is in “Londoner Love”. I did use Londontown’s nail hardener before and after applying it. As you can see, the color is vibrant and shiny. The polish was easy to apply and lasted more than one week. Another plus is that the brand is vegan and does not test its products on animals.

half moon manicure pic - Non-toxic Nail Polish with Hydrating Oils
Half-moon manicure in “Londoner Love”

Even used on its own, the nail hardener can help to protect and nourish nails. For extra hydration, I also like to apply jojoba oil to my cuticles every week. An aromatherapy oil roller makes this super simple to do and it takes less than one minute. I have noticed an improvement in the condition and strength of my nails over time.

Londowntown nail poilsh 2 1 - Non-toxic Nail Polish with Hydrating Oils
Londontown Nail Hardener & Base Coat (left)

Nourishing Oils

Londontown lakur contains a “Florium Complex” of flower oils and other botanical extracts. This oil blend includes evening primrose oil, rapeseed oil, and vitamin E. 4 Evening primrose oil (EPO) comes from the seeds of the evening primrose plant, or Oenothera biennis. Native Americans used it to soothe skin inflammation. Primrose oil contains gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) and linoleic acid. 5 These are essential omega-6 fatty acids (EFAs).

Rapeseed oil is high in monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids. These include oleic acid, linoleic acid, and alpha-linolenic acid. In particular, the latter two are considered essential and are not naturally made in the body. Linoleic acid may help to prevent brittle nails.6 Luckily, most of us do get enough EFAs from foods such as plant-based oils, nuts, and seeds. Vitamin E is an antioxidant and may reduce nail damage. Although it is not clinically proven, the “Florium Complex” may have moisturizing and protective properties for these reasons.

References

  1. Voller LM, Persson L, Bruze M, Ericson ME, Hylwa SA. Formaldehyde in “nontoxic” nail Polish. Dermatitis. 2019;30(4):259-263. doi:10.1097/der.0000000000000493
  2. Young AS, Allen JG, Kim UJ, et al. Phthalate and Organophosphate Plasticizers in Nail Polish: Evaluation of Labels and Ingredients. Environ Sci Technol. 2018;52(21):12841-12850. doi:10.1021/acs.est.8b04495
  3. Toluene – beta.epa.gov. https://beta.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2016-09/documents/toluene.pdf. Accessed February 2, 2021.
  4. Florium complex. LONDONTOWN. https://www.londontownusa.com/pages/florium-complex. Accessed February 2, 2021.
  5. Bayles B, Usatine R. Evening primrose oil. Am Fam Physician. 2009; 80(12):1405-1408.
  6. Vermaak I, Kamatou GPP, Komane-Mofokeng B, Viljoen AM, Beckett K. African seed oils of commercial importance — cosmetic applications. South African Journal of Botany. 2011;77(4):920-933. doi:10.1016/j.sajb.2011.07.003

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I have been interested in health and personal care since high school. I have a Bachelor’s degree in Biology and a Doctor of Pharmacy degree. My passion is helping women feel and look their best. Read more here.

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